Belay Device
Paracord for a Prussik?
As a climbing instructor I hear/see all sorts of crazy things. The latest is a student that told us about him using paracord as Prussik as he didn’t have proper Tech cord and hadn’t expected to rappel. I doubted his story as he was vague on details or unable to answer my questions. The Prussik was allegedly used on the tail end to hold rope NOT above the belay device.
If you used paracord as a Prussik, I want to know the following:
- how many wraps did you use?
- how many strands of climbing rope were you rappeling on, one or two?
- did you use one prussik or two?
- how safe did you feel?
Beach bum: I specifically asked about “real” paracord NOT 7 mm Tech cord. Thank you.
I wouldn’t be TOO surprised if it worked ( I assume you mean he was trying to use it as an autoblock device). The smaller diameter the rope, the better gripping power it has in a friction knot, typically. I would worry about it burning if it slipped though. Seems like that kind of nylon would have a lower melting point, but I don’t have any evidence of that, just seems so from an initial look. Of course, I will always choose & recommend “proper” climbing equipment over homemade/substituted anything. Climbing gear manufacturers do extensive testing and engineering to ensure the safety of their products, and it’s hard to say what features may be engineered into cordelette that para cord is lacking, which could prove potentially fatal. I have used 8mm cord and not felt as safe as when I used 5mm cord, which is now my primary choice. As for where to place it, I always place it below the belay device, as this seems to be the standard now and it has performed much better for me.
And as for the guy that told you that story, I would doubt it as well. Why would he have a climbing rope, harness, belay device, and not expect to rappel? I would assume maybe he was sport climbing and had to back off a route halfway. Well in that case, I always carry a little bit of gear just in case, and if I wouldn’t bring backup climbing gear like some webbing or cord, why would I bring para cord???? Just doesn’t really add up to me.
Climbing Tools: Rap Safety- Part 3- Belay Device/prussik
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NEW Cassin Belay Device Gold Anodized $15.00 |
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Mammut “Bionic Eight” Figure8 Belay Device $16.50 |
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Sterling ATS Belay and Rappel Device Descender – Black $33.99 |
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Kong Ghost Multi-use Belay Device $25.95 |
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Mad Rock Aviator Belay Device $15.95 |
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PETZL REVERSO 3 Belay Device ROCK CLIMBING Green NEW $26.95 |
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PETZL REVERSO 3 Belay Device ROCK CLIMBING Blue NEW $26.95 |
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PETZL REVERSO 3 Belay Device ROCK CLIMBING Titanium NEW $26.95 |
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LIGHTLY USED BELAY DEVICE $12.00 |
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PETZL REVERSO 3 CLIMBING BELAY RAPPEL DEVICE GREY D17 T $31.61 |
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ABC ARC RIGID BELAY- Keeps Your Rope Running Smoothly Through The Device $14.65 |
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PETZL I’D SM D200S0 DESCENDER/BELAY DEVICE NFPA $225.00 |
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Mammut Vader LIGHT*** Red Belay Device $15.95 |
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Petzl UNIVERSO belay device system + Biner ATTACHE 3D $34.95 |
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Edelrid Zap-O-Mat Adjustable Tension Belay Device $44.98 |
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Black Diamond BOD SIT HARNESS Large, 2 Carabiners and new ATC Belay Device $9.99 |
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BNWT PETZL I’D S Self-Braking Descender /Belay Device – FREE US SHIPPING $210.99 |
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CLIMBING MAGAZINE ANNUAL BEST NEW GEAR ISSUE BELAY DEVICES BOOTS SHOES ROPES $9.95 |
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PETZL REVERSO 3 BELAY RAPPEL DEVICE TITANIUM COLOR NEW $34.99 |
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DMM BOA QUICKLOCK LOCKING CARABINER w/ TRANGO PYRAMID BELAY DEVICE ROCK CLIMBING $11.00 |
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blk diamond harness, mad rock shoes, belay device, 2 locking caribeaners $50.00 |
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NWT Petzl I’D S Self Braking Belay Descender Device IDS $223.95 |
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Petzl GRIGRI Auto-locking Belay Device $37.00 |
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Sterling ATS Belay and Rappel Device Descender Canyoneering Canyoning, Black $39.95 |
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Sterling ATS Belay and Rappel Device Descender Canyoneering Canyoning, Red $39.95 |
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Sterling ATS Belay and Rappel Device Descender Canyoneering Canyoning, Green $39.95 |
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Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device $9.99 |
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Wild Country Stitch Plates belay device $5.00 |
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Trango Tube Stitch Plates belay devices $3.00 |
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New Mountaineering Skiing Ice Rock Climbing Aviator Belay Device Protector $0.99 |
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PETZL GRIGRI ROCK CLIMBING BELAY BRAKING DESCENDER DEVICE- GREAT CONDITION $26.00 |
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PETZL STOP ROCK CLIMBING BELAY BRAKING DESCENDER DEVICE- GREAT CONDITION $31.00 |
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Great Shape Petzl GriGri Belay Device $49.99 |
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Mammut Smart ALPINE 7.5-9.5 Belay Device Smaller $42.95 |
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Mammut Smart Belay Device $28.95 |
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PETZL I’D LG Descender Belay Device NFPA Black NEW $196.00 |
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Twistlock Carabiner with 3 Super 8 Belay Devices $9.98 |
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BRAND NEW LOCKING HMS BINER AND ABC BELAY DEVICE $24.95 |