Spelunking Caving

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December 10th, 2009 admin

spelunking caving

Craters and caves in Mt. Suswa, Kenya

Only 50 km from Nairobi, it is described by many as the best day trip from Kenya’s capital, this little known yet massive double cratered volcano is located very close to it’s well known sister, Mt. Longonot. Though unimpressive from the outside or main Narok road Mt. Suswa is one of the most spectacular mountains of the Rift Valley as it comprises a 12 km across double crater system, a vast network of obsidian caves and a variety of wild animals and plants.

The caves comprise of lava tube systems, formed in a period of recent volcanic activity. They are totally different from limestone caves. Lava tubes are relatively rare, and are believed to have been formed when molten lava, of the correct type and viscosity (pahoehoe lava), flowed down a slope of an ideal angle. The outer layers cool and solidify, but the core continues to flow, and in some cases, evacuates itself completely to leave behind an empty tube. Numerous unusual features can be found and include lava ropes, benches, lava stalactites and stalagmites and a variety of secondary formations. The latter are produced by the deposition of minerals dissolved in the ground waters. The secondary formations are exceptionally fine in cave 35A on Suswa where very unusual and beautiful stalactites and stalagmites are found. Many of these formations are quite fragile and great care must be taken not to touch them.

These spectacular caves some 10 m high and wide in many places are a favourite for spelunking enthusiasts. Bring a good torch and lots of batteries. Do not go alone, children must accompany adults, there are dangerous drop offs (over 10 m) in places. The caves are extraordinary, their walls have a bizarre texture like stretched dough from the retreating lava.

Hiking

After driving across the vast outer crater floor on a good road, the inner crater drops off a few hundred feet. It is a massive crater about 5 km wide and in the center is a massive central plug. The entire area can be hiked, including the inner crater rim and you can hike to the bottom of the inner crater to hot springs – there are tracks but you may need a guide. The summit of the inner crater is called Ol Doinyo Nyokie (the red mountain) at 7,222 ft. Just park at the road head and follow the paths sticking as close as possible to the crater rim. You do not need a guide for this.

The walk up to the main summit starts from the viewpoint. A steep section leads to grassy ridges with occasional trees. Where convenient keep to the ridge and reach the first summit (2250m) in about 1h. The ridge leading to the main top from here is rough and the going is slow (1h). It is best to return the same way as the complete circumnavigation takes about half a day and involves some very tedious blocky lava crossings in the south-east section of the crater.

Camping

The area is now managed as the Suswa Conservancy and camping is permitted – there are a number of sensational points to camp where one feels totally isolated. Bring all your own water and some to share with the Masai visitors. We took our dogs and camped at the entrance to a massive cave called Lorang’amboli. Our dogs slept in the car due to the hyenas and leopards. You can also camp at a spectacular point amongst tall acacias at the road head overlooking the Inner crater. At Ksh 500 per head for citizens/residents and 500 for camping, and 500 per vehicle this is more expensive than other conservation areas. But the reward is that there is nobody else out there and with no evidence of lights on the entire horizon, the night sky was out of this world. Small animals might raid your camp at night if you leave food out.

Wildlife and plants

We saw a few large mammals; giraffe, thomsons gazelle, zebra, klipspringer. At night we did hear hyenas and we saw a genet. There are rumours of leopard. The caves are full of bats, and you can also see baboons and rock hyraxes. This is a great site for birding. Some plants here are extraordinary, especially around the cave mouths, other wise it’s mostly whistling thorn country with Leleshwa on the lava flows. We arrived after a long drought when the rains had recently started, the wild flowers were wonderful.

About the Author

Alphaxad is Tours and Travel Consultant with LetsGokenya, an online reservations company that allows guests to book and pay for accommodation in kenya online and in real time. Find us on www.letsgokenya.com

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